Retaining Wall Blocks and Base

A 20 ft wall that is 3 ft exposed (about 4 courses of 8-inch-tall blocks) needs roughly 120 face blocks before corners and ~5–10% waste, plus a compacted gravel trench often 6 inches deep and a few inches wider than the block. Taller walls need engineering and may require geogrid—follow the manufacturer height chart.

By · Published 2026-10-23 · Last reviewed 2026-11-07

Key takeaway: Block count ≈ courses × blocks per course, where courses = ceil(wall height ÷ block height) and blocks per course = ceil(wall length ÷ block length). Compacted gravel bases are typical for segmental walls, but taller walls, surcharges, and poor soils need engineering. Follow the block manufacturer’s installation manual and local codes.

How block and base estimates work

For a straight wall with uniform rectangular face blocks:

Courses = ceil(wall height ÷ block face height).

Blocks per course = ceil(wall length ÷ block face length).

Blocks = courses × blocks per course (then add waste for cuts and breakage).

Base trench gravel volume ≈ wall length × trench width × trench depth (convert to yards by dividing cubic feet by 27).

YardTally’s retaining wall calculator defaults to common 18×6 in face blocks, 5% waste, and a gravel trench about 24 in wide by 6 in deep unless you change those inputs. Refine aggregate tonnage with the gravel calculator. Material choice echoes themes in gravel types for driveways and drainage layers used under paver base gravel and sand.

Segmental landscape walls often include buried base courses, geogrid at specified elevations, drainage pipe, and clean stone behind the blocks. Those components are specified by height and soil conditions—do not scale a 3 ft DIY patio wall detail to a 8 ft yard cut without professional design.

Worked example: 20 ft long × 3 ft exposed height

With 18 in long × 6 in tall face blocks:

These figures match the retaining-wall calculator defaults for a 20×3 wall. If your manufacturer requires an extra buried course, add that course to the block count even though it does not show in the exposed height.

Block planning table

Approximate block counts for 18×6 in face blocks (no waste; add ~5–10%)
Wall L × HCoursesPer courseBlocks
10 × 2 ft4728
20 × 2 ft41456
20 × 3 ft61484
30 × 3 ft620120

Curves, corners, and capped walls change counts. Cap units are often ordered as a separate linear-foot item.

Drainage, geogrid, and when DIY stops

Water is the quiet load behind many wall failures. A perforated drainpipe at the base of the drainage stone, outlets to daylight or an approved system, and free-draining backfill keep hydrostatic pressure down. Compacted clay jammed against the back of hollow blocks is a common mistake—follow the block producer’s backfill specification, which often calls for clean stone in a drainage zone.

Geogrid extends the reinforced soil mass for taller segmental walls. Grid type, length, and vertical spacing are not guesswork; they come from the manufacturer’s engineered charts or a site-specific design. If your project exceeds the published maximum for a gravity (unreinforced) stack—or if a driveway, fence post footing, or slope sits above the wall—stop and get qualified design help.

Base preparation deserves as much care as the visible face. Excavate to stable material, place angular gravel, and compact until the first course sits level (or correctly stepped on slopes). A crooked base course telegraphs all the way to the cap. For gravel selection intuition, read gravel types for driveways; for related thin-layer patio bases (not wall backfill), see paver base gravel and sand depth.

Utilities, easements, and property lines also constrain walls. Call before you dig, and confirm that redirecting drainage will not send water onto a neighbor’s foundation.

Step-by-step

  1. Determine retained height, slope above/below, and any driveway or structure surcharge.
  2. Check whether the wall height triggers permit or engineering thresholds in your city.
  3. Select a block system and read its maximum unreinforced height tables.
  4. Estimate blocks and base gravel with the retaining wall calculator.
  5. Excavate trench; place and compact base gravel level (or stepped on slopes per manual).
  6. Set base course carefully—errors compound upward.
  7. Stack with pins/lips as designed; install drainpipe and drainage stone; place geogrid when specified; backfill in lifts.

Tips

Common mistakes

Height thresholds, permits, and utilities

Many local codes treat retaining walls above a certain height as engineered structures that need a permit, and a measurement of around four feet from the bottom of the footing to the top of the wall is a common threshold in many places—though it varies, and surcharges from driveways, slopes, or buildings can trigger earlier review. Call your building department before design, and schedule a utility locate before digging. Mark property lines, since walls near boundaries can raise drainage and access issues with neighbors. Where the soil is poor or the wall holds back water, a professional designer is worth the cost.

Sources

FAQ

How many retaining wall blocks do I need?

Divide wall length by block length and height by block height, multiply, then add waste. Example: 20 ft × 3 ft with 18×6 in blocks → 84 blocks before waste.

How deep should the gravel base be?

Manufacturer manuals vary; many small landscape walls use several inches of compacted dense-grade gravel in a trench wider than the block. The calculator’s 6 in depth × 24 in width is a planning default—not a universal code.

When do I need an engineer?

As walls get taller, carry surcharge, or support structures, codes and manufacturers require engineered designs. When in doubt, ask the building department.

Can I reuse the paver base depths?

Related ideas (compacted angular gravel), different structure. Use wall-system details, not patio sand beds, behind retained soil.

Do caps count in the face-block total?

Usually order caps separately by linear feet of wall.

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I build and maintain YardTally as a one-person project: free home and garden material calculators with documented formulas, manufacturer bag yields, and university extension guidance. I am not a licensed contractor or engineer—results are planning estimates you should check against local building codes and product labels.

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